BALENCIAGA'S “CLONES” COLLECTION IS THE PERFECT RESPONSE TO THE “GUCCIAGA” HACK
Balenciaga's Spring 2022 ready-to-wear presentation, titled “Clones” considers however our consciousness of world is mediated done an progressively filtered — perfected, polished, conformed, and photoshopped — lens.
To thrust the connection home, Balenciaga tapped creator Eliza Douglas (who you mightiness admit from astir of their caller shows, arsenic good arsenic Burberry's chaotic SS21 presentation) to exemplary each 44 looks for women and men. See for yourself below.
In the video directed by Quentin Deronzier, Douglas appears arsenic a bid of integer clones, immoderate of which are deepfakes, oregon models with the artist's photogrammetry-captured and CG-scanned look digitally grafted on.
It's some a critique of fashion’s “hero” item-trend fixation and a cleanable rejoinder to Gucci's caller Balenciaga-hacked "ARIA" collection. The “Gucciaga” postulation mixed the codes of some houses. As Alessandro Michele explained, “Gucci becomes for maine a hacking lab, made of incursions and metamorphoses ... I person plundered the nonconformist rigor of Demna Gvasalia and the intersexual hostility of Tom Ford.”
After the archetypal collab astatine the Gucci show, Highsnobiety’s Christopher Morency wrote, “The postulation volition get grailed presumption for the elemental crushed of existing, and successful the extremity — careless of assemblage sentiment.”
In response, Balenciaga has interpreted Gucci’s recognizable signatures arsenic Balenciaga products. Here, ironically, Gvasalia merges the location codes to research and question ideas of authenticity, counterfeiting, and appropriation wrong the manner industry.
“Yes, it’s an casual currency grab, a straightforward effort to springiness the existent customers who bargain into the 2 brands and who truthful galore successful the manufacture assistance up their chemoreceptor to precisely what they want,” notes Morency. “But don’t disregard that what Gucci and Balenciaga person demonstrated” with some collections. Their 2nd collaboration proves erstwhile again that, “marketing moments similar these volition make specified a level of hysteria that successful today’s hype-driven manufacture the efforts volition alteration into desirability.”
For example, an archival double-G diamond monogram plan is transformed to dwell of double-B logos successful Gucci’s iconic tone-on-tone palette connected a assortment of leather goods and classical accessories. The line, which besides includes limited-edition bags hand-tagged with “This Is Not a Gucci Bag,” volition beryllium successful stores starting successful November of 2021.
While the references to Gucci are thought-provoking and effective, it is simply a Balenciaga postulation done and done — implicit with supersized silhouettes, homages to accelerated food, and adjacent a sweatshirt featuring the Simpsons wearing pieces from Balenciaga's past season. Wrap coats callback a classical Balenciaga cocoon construction, and the brand's signature parka and puffer marque a reappearance, arsenic does a caller signature, the tracksuit.
Elsewhere, tactical cargo pants alteration into coveralls and cyber goth-style raver pants; skirts successful denim are tricked retired with metallic hoops and studs, and straps.
Balenciaga Crocs 2.0, the 2nd collaboration betwixt the 2 brands, sees the classical clog made into pumps, boots, and platformed excavation slides. Meanwhile, Trooper boots and Derbies person thick-soled, square-toed, and angular connected each sides. Runner sneakers, introduced successful Winter 21, person a cut-up aesthetic successful the signifier of a accepted moving shoe.